Decorative kayak stripping


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7. Decorative stripping

Click on any image to see the full size version

	Using the method in the photos you can create almost endless varieties of decorative features. The strips can also run at angles to the stations (within reason). Overdoing it may effect the fairness of the surface. The first task on this double's deck was to contour long square edged splines symmetrically along the centerline the whole length of the kayak. It makes no difference that both cockpits cut through in places. The important thing is to get a workable and pleasing curve that spans the whole deck.
	The main body of the deck is filled in up to the splines. Spanish cedar is used afterwards to strip one half of the inside wedge. The interlocking strips contour the surface nicely even in short lengths.
	The deck centerline has to be transferred periodically to the top of the strips with a 4ft straightedge. Stripping over the vertical alignment lines of the stations erases all frame of reference.

	Just like in the preceding chapter, razor cutting everything at the same time saves a ton of effort. At this point you can hack into the stations with impunity.
	Half of the fore and aft deck is done.
	Filling in the rest. This time, each strip is planed or block sanded to form a precise fit against its counterpart. The width of the opposing strips should be the same, so that you get an accurate mirror match. If you notice one half running ahead or behind, shave the strip or compress the joint more or less. The important thing is to nip it in the bud early on!

The finished product. This is how it looks all fiberglassed and varnished. The pictures don't seem to do justice to the real thing.

The wood:

red cedar- main body
white pine
Spanish cedar- center wedge
Bubinga- thin splines and zebra pattern

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