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15. Hull stem bands and tips

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After the deck is completely fiberglassed and the coaming rim done, cut the hull cradle wires to free the kayak from the mold. Install the outside deck cradles on the strongback and position the entire kayak facing hull up. For this procedure, the hull and deck should still be attached at the sheerline (wire, hot glue or both) so that the hull retains its fair sheerline curve.

The filleting between the plates and filling of the wire holes is exactly the same as was done for the deck earlier.

Here I am gluing on a piece of tiger maple keel strip on the last 2 feet of the keel at both bow and stern. Prepare the keel by planing or sanding a flat spot on top being careful not to cut too deep into the internal epoxy stitches. Glue on an oversize keel strip of your choice and hold it down any way you can. I am using glass reinforced packing tape. By the way, this is completely optional procedure as the kayak will be fine without any keel strips or stem bands.
Planing of the raw keel strip to blend it into the surrounding hull. The strip must completely cover the patch you sanded underneath.
Installing a more flexible decorative stem band after the keel strip is shaped.
Here is what the transition looks like after the hull is glassed. The bow is to the left.
I am skipping forward quite a bit but here is the continuation of the work on the stem band after the hull and deck are bonded together. This is the best time to address the tips of the kayak as both the hull and deck tips are finally joined and need to be worked on at the same time.
Trimming and sanding a flat spot to glue on a decorative tip.
Shaping the tip.
Finished product after varnish, paint trim and grab loop.

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Last page update: 11 January 2020